For someone struggling to succeed in a creative field, selling the clothes off your own back usually isn’t a sign that things are going well. But not so for R. Brooke Priddy, who in the early 2000s was striving to make it in the fashion industry, working out of her tiny New York apartment and, she says, “making custom-ordered clothing that I sold by handing out cards to anyone who liked the clothing I was wearing.” Her first big break came when someone approached her in a cafe about a faux-fur vest she had on. “I took down her number and request and made her one by the next week,” Priddy recalls. “Later I discovered that she worked at Vogue magazine! That same month I wore a ballerina-inspired tunic to yoga and sold it off my back, right then and there, to my classmate! Thankfully, I had brought a change of clothes that day.”

Back then, the now-32-year-old Tennessee native was making, besides things like the vest and the tunic, a lot of what she calls “dainties”: camisoles and bras and panties that could also be worn as swimsuits. More recently she’s created reversible and “transformational” pieces that can, for example, shuttle between skirt and dress, as well as more traditional gowns. All have a flowing look appropriate to Priddy’s sea-suggesting business name, Ship to Shore, and all are handmade by the designer in her Asheville, North Carolina, studio. And then there are Priddy’s creations for various performance pieces – fanciful, startling things like an inflatable gown, a 15-foot-high hoop skirt, and a Lycra outfit that’s also a boat. As an art student at the San Francisco Art Institute, she says, “I studied fine art and became interested in sculpture, installation, and performance art. Textiles always found their way in to my work and my sculptures were often wearable and interactive, like fashion. It wasn’t until I met my mentor, Elisa Jimenez, in New York in 2000 that I realized that art and fashion could be one and the same.”

One of the advantages of working in Asheville, Priddy says, is the easy access to a thriving “community of collaborators and co-conspirators” able to help with her more ambitious projects. But the town, where she moved in 2002, has offered more than just artistic assistance. With the help of a $7,000 loan and some education from the local small-business nonprofit Mountain BizWorks, she’s been able to grow Ship to Shore from a small space in the back of a clothing boutique to a dedicated storefront. Her current clientele comes from around the country and includes not just individuals looking for a distinctive wedding dress, but also musicians, dance companies, and a burlesque troupe.

“I create all of my work through draping,” Priddy says. “I love a fluid line that moves around the wearer like water.” For that reason, she’s never used patterns. “Each piece is custom fit to every individual’s body. It’s a truly collaborative process between me and the wearer.” She ends up devoting so much time and focus to each client and piece that she now works solely on commission – a far cry from selling the clothes off her back. “I call myself a dressmaker, a designer, and an artist,” she says. “I have attempted to create a new term for this merging of paths, but I have yet to find one.”

Over email, Priddy discusses merging, serging, and overcoming obstacles by going with the flow.

What’s it like living in Asheville? Does it impact your work?

I have never felt more at home in any of the 20-plus places where I have lived. I came to Asheville from much larger cities, and if I miss anything, it is the access to museums, stage, and culture. However, I traded that for the proximity to lush nature and open spaces, which is where I derive much of my inspiration.

Wow, 20 places?!

My family moved a lot with my father’s job in sales. We started in Tennessee and then went on to Virginia, and lots of cities in North Carolina. That must have put rabbit in my blood, because I continued to wander on my own even after leaving home, living in San Francisco and New York City and several more places before settling in Asheville.

Your work is the confluence of so many practices – fashion, art, performance. You’ve even improvised costumes for a science-fiction film from trash! What’s one of the most ambitious projects you’ve taken on?

I love to collaborate with other artists that have differing skill sets from my own. The truly ambitious projects involve many artists and voices. For The Opening, a multimedia fashion event that I co-produced in 2006, we had over 30 contributing artists including dancers, vocalists, lighting designers, and sculptors. It can be difficult to work closely and create an intimate experience with so many conspirators in on it. It can also be so very rewarding.

What are your performances about? I assume they’re more than just fashion shows.

I often approach a performance piece as a poem, or a visual interpretation of a theory or an idea. I like to work with dancers or those skilled in using the body expressively. The garments are often the focal point or the point of departure for the piece. My current project involves building a dress from clay that slowly decays throughout the run of the gallery exhibition. A dancer will wear it at the closing and “dance it to pieces.” It is somewhat a poem about impermanence.

I rarely do “fashion shows” but am more inclined to create performance events that are more experiential.

You’ve mentioned Elisa Jimenez. How closely did you work with her and what did you learn from it?

I always thought that the trends and teeth of the fashion community were not for me until I met Elisa. My close friend was interning for her in New York and helping her with this and that. When I moved there, in 1999, I was lucky enough to be called in at the last minute to help with a show that she was producing on Valentine’s Day. My job was to “imbibe” the models with flower essences and whisper little prayers to them before they hit the runway. She was doing performance art, and fashion was just a component of it all. This inspired me to no end, because I felt so close to this manner of working. I was doing a similar thing with my own creative practice and she brought me to the realization that it was all art. The line that separated my “artwork” from my sewing vanished soon after. Elisa lives her life as if everything she touches is a golden ingredient for a miracle … spending time with her really did change my life.

How long do you spend on a typical piece? How much is hand-sewn?

I like to take my time with custom work. When I start on a project I will request to see the client up to four times over a spread of two months. I do most of my work on their bodies during fittings that last from one to two hours. I do not use patterns, so I typically do all of the draping and designing on their bodies. It is a collaborative process, since I am responsive to their shape and inclinations. I would guess that on an average project 70 percent of my sewing is done by hand, with the remaining 30 percent by serger or straight stitcher. Many of the couture gowns I create are sewn completely by hand.

What materials do you like to use?

I use all types of draping fabrics that are soft to the touch. My favorite is Modal, but I also use fabrics that have spandex content because I love a good stretch.

Speaking of stretch, one of your swimwear lines featured a lot of reversible items. How come?

I adore reversibility because I like to keep ’em guessing. Lots of my gowns, even wedding gowns, can be worn inside and out. Its so fun to switch it around and rock a different look midparty.

Your dress/boat blows my mind!

I am glad you appreciate this, it is one of my favorites, too. … As you know, I make gowns for ceremonies all the time in my studio. I get to witness the personal transformations that women go through at the time of their wedding, proms, debutante balls, etc. It feeds my imagination to envision the gowns themselves as vehicles for self-awakenings. Just as a debutante dons her first ball gown, or a bride that slips on her white dress to present herself for her next life stage, it is a vestment for transformation and forward movement. The dress/boat is a ceremonial garb for passage. The photograph [on my website] is from a time-based performance piece on a small lake in southern Georgia. I am currently endeavoring to re-create this piece as a sculptural installation at the lake at the Southeastern Center for Contemporary Art in Winston-Salem for their upcoming exhibition “Out of Fashion.”

Is it true to say that your work is influenced a lot by water? If so, what about it intrigues you?

I am a Pisces and a lover of the sea. I often look to the qualities of water for guidance. Water is used as a representation of Tao because it always seeks the path of least resistance. It does not compete; it simply flows, finding the easiest path and following it, yet it will carve through rocks, run around steel or anything which resists it. Water does so simply through the power of its flowing nature.

Does it send anyone else into a mild panic attack when the stores start showing cold weather fashions in the middle of vacation season?  Why am I staring at a turtleneck on a mannequin as I gulp down iced-t to stay hydrated for window shopping in 90 degree weather?  I love Fall, but I don’t think any of us are ready to part with tank tops and afternoons by the pool yet. So fire up your grill —  here’s a quick round up of the current hot weather trends that everyone’s basking in. Let’s revel in the remaining Summer weeks. Tallyho!

Colors —  In terms of hues, nothing is new: not the trends since this past Winter and Spring, and not the vintage inspired colors being sunbathed and grilled in this Summer. Vintage fashion inspired by the 70s is still around, which means that taupes, neutrals and pastels adorn cooling looks. Light pinks and greens definitely suit billowy tops and dresses to a T, like on this Silk Willow T, pictured to the left, by By Rachel Rose. But conversely, bright blues and reds also seem to be perfect for the weather — no one can deny that somehow, nothing screams “BBQ! Beer!” like a bright cherry red.

Cloth Accessories — Avoid that gross feeling of sticky, sweaty jewelry by jumping on the cloth jewelry trend this Summer. They’re eco-conscious, feature unusual textures, and are physically lighter to wear. They’re also a little bit bohemian, a little bit old-world, and a little bit ethnic — which hits 3 birds with one stone in terms of what’s been in vogue thus far for 2011. Just look at the bracelets on the right by Etsy seller Thief and Bandit to see how a colorful mix of patterns and colors on these woven fabric cuffs are being worn this season.

Dresses, skirts, and things that flow — When fashion meets function, especially in potentially sweaty weather,  it’s a refreshing relief. That’s why flowy and cropped items seem to be populating the masses during these searingly hot months. Billowy 70s style dresses, maxi skirts, and crop tops all allow for plenty of breathing room. The Sage Chevron Dress by  designer Jamie and the Jones makes me feel comfortable and cool just on looks alone. Sweat it out in style, ladies.

Skinny Dipping — We can’t have a Summer Fashion roundup without a mention of bathing suits, right? For the past few years it seems like vintage inspired skimpies are the styles of choice, even in high fashion. Relax poolside with bandeau tops, high waisted bikini bottoms, and halter necklines. For a sample, to the right is a feminine summery throwback style by designer Amourouse.

Accoutrements for Outdoor Entertaining – I’m convinced that Summer weather is made for the hedonist, with lounging on porches and in gardens — usually with burgers and beer in hand — the number one activity of choice. As such, outdoor lighting and  furniture is heavily scouted by shoppers this time of year. Make the most of the nights spent outside with the  many clever lighting options out there, such as this recycled glass jar garden lamp by Boots N Gus.

Are there any other items that you’re melting over this Summer? Speak in the comments! And don’t forget to hydrate.

Collage Couture is dense with multi-faceted art techniques, pattern traces, and tutorials for the girly-girl and fashion fantasizer within. Most of the projects are inspired by the sketchbooks of fashion designers, and involve sketching or cutting out figurines and their accompanying outfits. There’s a paper doll tutorial, multiple tracings for dress sketchings, and advice on how to use stamping and collaging to create patterned dresses. For those less fashionably inclined, there are also projects for picture frames, inspiration boards and book covers.

Chapter 1 is a pre-requisite before setting up any art supplies, as it outlines techniques for stamping, figure sketching, and cutting out paper clothing that are used in projects featured in the subsequent chapters. The projects are do-able but complex, as most mixed-media projects are, so be prepared to prepare a hefty supply list before starting them, as well.

In terms of detail and writing, collage couture gives explicit but simple instructions. Each step is broken into a manageable task that’s accompanied by an illustrative picture. While many of the projects seem pretty ambitious, the quality of the instructions make them accessible to a slew of ages. If you want to re-create, to a T, the exact project featured, Collage Couture’s instructions are detailed enough to help you do so. But they’re also flexible, and encourage the reader to foster their own creative voice and style.

If your artistic impulses lean towards paper mixed-media and fashion, Collage Couture is rife with a week-long worth of artsy activities. But I do think it caters towards a specific audience. For those who love creating something that’s functional or wearable, this book isn’t for you. However, it could be a useful resource for learning to sketch your designs or to create mood boards and collages that instigate inspiration.

WIN A COPY OF COLLAGE COUTURE

Hello Craft has one copy of Collage Couture to giveaway to a lucky reader! To enter just comment on the post and tell us why you’d like a copy of Collage Couture by next Wednesday, 06/29.

* Update: winner has been notified. Thank you to everyone who entered!*

Geometric Stocking by Etsy seller rikrak

Everyone already seems a tizzy about the upcoming holiday season, and perhaps rightfully so. Inventory doesn’t just magically generate itself, you know. So with world-wide fashion weeks finally over, I thought that now might be a good time to sit back with a cup of tea, take a breath of that fall air, and assess the current “trend” situation before the full-on holiday feeding frenzy ensues.

“Trends” are sometimes thought of as vague, fickle, and fleeting, but it’s possible that incorporating them into your wares, or at least educating yourself as to your products place amongst them, could poise you ahead of the game and grant you a competitive edge when selling this holiday season.

For example, the Geometric Stocking by Etsy seller rikrak, featured to the right, manages to combine holiday cheer with the very popular geometric and color blocking look. So unique! So now!

Here are three trends that I believe bridge the “so hot right now” with the “up and coming” spring trend cycle.

Trend numero 1: The 70s are back

The Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2011 collection was full-on 70s. photos: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com via Style.com

Ever since the show Mad Men has reached near-cult-like status, the 50s look has been all the rage. (On a side, did anyone watch the season finale last Sunday?!) This retro trend continues this spring, progressively, with a focus on 70s fashion.

Yes, Saturday Night Fever inspired white suits are back, and I don’t know how I’m feeling about that. And no amount of convincing from Anna Wintour is going to grow me the confidence to rock a silk jumpsuit in public.

But there are some more toned down and wearable looks featured this season, such as: halters, wide trousers, full skirts with belt cinched waists, and dainty lady-like accessories. Basically, put flowers or bows on anything and you’re down to channel a young and stylish version of your grandma (or mom) via 2011. Prepare to watch Jodi Foster circa Taxi Driver share a sartorial handshake with Sally Draper or a Hitchcock heroine.

Trend 2: Geometry 101

Prabal Gurung Spring 2011; 3.1 Philip Lim Spring 2011. Both photos: imaxtree.com via elle.com

Bent, carved, sculptural, the square root of Pi. Math is all around us, my calculus teacher used to tell me. Geometric patterns and shapes are everywhere you look right now (hello, bunting trend!) and will continue to be during warmer times.

Bold, minimalist designs pack a lot of punch, affording dramatic blocks of color or sculptural forms without any bells and whistles. Reflecting our trying economic times, designs need to go farther with less, and geometry definitely takes us there.

But reasonings aside, the great thing about this look is that it’s easily transferable to a slew of designs and products. Whether it be  jewelry, home wares, fine art, or textiles, right and obtuse angels can and probably will be everywhere, even in the most subtle of ways. Take note.

Trend Trois: Fall colors recycled

Spring 2011 runway looks from 3.1 Phillip Lim, Richard Chai Love, Yigal Azrouël, Rag & Bone. Photos courtesy of the designers. Image via refinery29.com

While spring 2011 collections definitely celebrate blinding pops of color (please refer to the geometric trend discussed above!) warm and neutral fall tones will be reincarnated fresh for springtime. Fashion is actually learning to recycle! White and taupe are “so major” during the 2011 spring season, as well as: greys, browns, beige, mint, and muted pinks and blues.

Dress by Proenza Schouler. Photo: Imaxtree via Elle.come

But if this color palette is your aesthetic equivalent of reading War and Peace, you’ll be happy to know that the color of the year is a kinetic orange, so intense it causes Adderall cravings. Please observe the decidedly Halloween Proenza Schouler dress to your right. And to think, this dress is for spring, not fall!

Final fourth trend: Pattern Insanity

Miu Miu Spring 2011. Photo by Imaxtree.com via Elle.com

Rodarte 2011 Spring collection, photo credit: Dan & Corrina Lecca via harpersbazaar.com

Coming out of left field, schizophrenic looking pattern mixing is also on the map in 2011. These looks combine crazy, colorful prints and textures to put some jazzy unpredictability back into fashion.

With this trend, there’s a delicate balance between looking “fun” and like you dressed yourself while drunk, but when it works it works. It’ll be interesting to see the handmakers’ take on this risky but outside-the-box style. I salute anyone who boldly dons this look (or those silk jumpsuits.)

There are many more spring 2011 fads to study and ponder — lace, denim, animal prints, and stripes, oh my! — but I’ll save them all for a later post. Halloween may be near, but I don’t want to cause any Zombie-like head explosions from fashion information overload. I do hope, however, that these three trends get the creative juices flowing for relevant and modern looks that add extra panache for your holiday sales.

If you’ve eyed any trends that I’ve missed, or if you’d like to comment on how trends affect business, please write to us below. And remember: always be true to your own tastes, though it never hurts to keep your eyes peeled for what’s next!

Art Whino is holding it’s first ever design competition, and they are looking for entries. The competition will be open to anyone and everyone who wants to participate. The twenty winning designs will be showcased in a fashion show and exhibition at Crystal Couture on February 24th, 2009.

Crystal Couture is a two week event that will feature sample sales, runway and trunk shows from designers, local boutiques, and area salons in Crystal City, VA. Each night will feature a theme with unique drinks, food tastes, and exciting fashions and music.

To enter the competition, email tshirtcomp@artwhino.com for specific submission requirements. Each entry is $5 and are due by 5 p.m. on February 12, 2009.

All entries will be displayed in a slide show in the opening gala event of Crystal Couture on February 13. The twenty winning entries will be printed in poster form and in t-shirt form at a runway show and exhibit on February 24.

One entry will win “Best in Show” and receive $300. The winner will be announced at the exhibit on the 24th. The twenty designs will also be for sale at the exhibit.

In this the premiere Talk Shop, Joshua Tiktin, artist, musician and co-owner (with his wife Luciana),
of Dekka in Washington, D.C., gives us the goods on his unique art co-op that has become a smash hit gallery and retail destination.

Dekka’s mission is to be a vehicle that designers, artists, and musicians can use in order to connect with their consumers; They provide opportunities such as donated space and time at entertainment events for individuals to showcase their talents and sell their products.  Dekka also provides their artists with donated space at the DEKKA Showroom — a co-op style space where members pay a rent to sell their merchandise.  And to top off this brilliant concept, Joshua is a super nice dude… which means a lot in the fast-paced business world of D.C.  Read on to find out more.

Tell us what Dekka is all about:
DEKKA is a showroom that features over 30 (mostly local) designers and artists. We work together as a team to promote our individual creative businesses.  At the same time, it is in our hearts to stir up positive movements in the cultural landscape in the DC area.

Do you have any sort of background in crafting or the arts?
Yes, a lot! I have written, produced, MC’d, and DJ’d Electronic and Hip Hop music since 89′.  I was also a self employed artist for several years in Miami, after graduating from University of Maryland with an Art degree.

How does your business support independent artists and crafters and/or the handmade community?
We give them the opportunity of having a store in the heart of a hopping shopping district (U Street!),
without the tremendous cost and risk of owning and operating their own store.

Being that DC is typically a conservative (fashion-wise) and expensive (for most of us) city, how have those factors played into your decision to open and run a business here?
We didn’t plan on doing this! We did have the idea in our minds while living in Miami and here, but it happened here because we met a lot of artists and designers who wanted to do it.  DC wanted this! It turns out that this is the best place to do this now.  Since the government is here, the economy is more stable in DC than in other cities.  People still have their jobs, they still have money, and they are still shopping!

How can local crafters get involved with Dekka?
They can send me an email with “DEKKA” in the subject line (please send links and/or pics, etc.).  From there we will go over their work and see if it fits in with what we are doing.  If it does, we will go over all the details and logistics.  After that, it is up to them if they are ready to join with us!

What are the most unusual items for sale in your shop?
With songs like “Evil Chicken” and “The Windshield Wiper Dance”, I would have to say my “JMC” CD’s are definitely out there.  Also, Jon Wye’s belt buckles (Belgian waffles, underwear, etc) are fresh.  The artwork of David Barr and Michelle Fatovic are also truly unique and inspiring.

Any exciting upcoming events or sales going on at Dekka?
Absolutely! Black Friday is going to be awesome (November 28).  We will be open from 9am-9pm, featuring lots of discounts, drinks, food, and music.  It’ll be a blast!  Also, the first Saturday of every month is our Art Open House, and the third Thursday of every month is our Trunk Show.  Keep a heads up for some monthly out of store events coming soon! Don’t forget to visit our website at www.dekkafam.com.

Dekka is located at 1338 U Street NW, 2nd Floor, Washington, DC 20009.
Check out their artists and latest happenings at dekkafam.com.

If you own a boutique, gallery or other place of business that supports the indie craft community, and want it featured in Talk Shop, email hellocraftinfo@gmail.com with Talk Shop in the subject line.